Sequel leaves the Aegean

Tuesday 26 May

Left home at 4.15 a.m. for our flight from LHR to Athens, arrived back in Athens on schedule and elected to take the metro to Piraeus.  All went well until we got off at the stop before Piraeus thinking this was the one we needed for Zea Marina only to find we were still some way away. Ended up taking a taxi anyway but at a substantially reduced fare even if the journey did take us twice as long. Managed to drag the Captain (hereinafter known as Mr Bruce) to Carrefour to do a big shop having managed, rather cleverly I thought, to leave my credit card in my 'English' purse on board. Got back onto the boat for the rain to start and as it didn't look like it was going to stop we ate on board for the first time since we arrived on 02 May.

Wednesday 27 May

Up early to await the arrival of diesel engineers (it is they who call the Captain 'Mr Bruce') who had agreed to change oil and filters (a mini service), and the fuel tanker to fill up the boat.  Needless to say their watches are set on Greek time, at least 15 minutes behind ours. But all done and dusted by 12.30 p.m. and a great job done before we left for the Corinth Canal at 13.30 hrs. It took us almost five hours to get to the Corinth, passing huge tankers moored outside of Piraeus along the way but otherwise without incident.  Called up the Canal control tower when we were a couple of miles away as we had decided to see if we could go through immediately and spend the night on the west side of the Canal at Corinth Town itself rather than anchoring and waiting until Thursday morning. We were given the go ahead to moor alongside to pay the fees - 267 euros - and only had to wait about half an hour before being told to proceed.  Last time, coming the other way three years ago, we had to wait an hour and a half before we were allowed to go through. The canal is three miles long and at just over 7 knots it took us about half an hour to get through.  We managed to find a spot to tie up for the night on a large quay at Corinth Town all on our own to start with but fairly quickly joined by two or three sailing boats. By this time quite windy but put out plenty of fenders and tried to settle down for a quiet evening.  No chance - even tied up alongside we rocked and rolled all night and then, having planned to leave at 6 a.m., overslept.

Waiting for permission to go through the Corinth Canal
Note: the colour of the sky

Farewell to the Aegean Sea

The Corinth Canal

Thursday 28 May

Despite oversleeping managed to get away by 7 a.m. Still windy but sunny enough and sea state moderate - at least until after we had had coffee.  We sat with our legs in the sun discussing how lovely it was and how we would miss times like these when we no longer have the boat etc. etc. And then the weather changed - we were heading into the wind and within a short space of time had waves crashing right over the top of the boat and onto the back deck and we remembered why we think we have had enough. I am happy to say it didn't last too long - about an hour - Mr Bruce was planning to make a dash (ha!ha!) for Trizonia - the boat graveyard we visited previously and which I absolutely hated - as he didn't think we could take 5 hours of wave bashing, but then it did eventually calm down enough for us to relax again.  We celebrated with lunch made by Mr Bruce.  Actually I am fine  - its only when we have a beam sea that I feel unwell - but as Mr Bruce is never going to read this I so enjoy being waited on by him, first tea, then breakfast, coffee and lunch so far.  In the meantime I have checked my emails, done a couple of sudokus, checked my emails again, written my blog, nodded off for half an hour.  Such hard work.

We are heading for Patras and now (nearly 8 hours on) have in sight the bridge which links the Peloponnisos with the mainland at the western end of the Gulf of Corinth and this will take us into the Gulf of Patras. Tomorrow, all being well, we head for Lefkas, possibly another ten hour day. 

  

Monday 25 May

Have had a great weekend back in the UK and back to Athens just after 8 a.m. tomorrow morning from Heathrow which means a 4 a.m. start from home.

The wedding on Saturday was absolutely lovely and we are so pleased we returned for it. Not so pleased to have to spend a few hours weeding the garden this afternoon, or should I say de-grassing the raspberry bushes. I could go into haymaking with the amount of grass I pulled up.

But now quite excited about the next part of our adventure and getting underway again.

Sequel in Athens

Sunday 17

Decided to spend another day and night on the quay at Kea which we regretted as Saturday saw the arrival of boats from the nearby mainland, large catamarans, large power boats and very fast ribs and by mid afternoon the quay was very busy and so were the restaurants. Set off today for Poros, again somewhere we have been before but a very pretty island, and the sea was almost flat calm, although warm and sunny the visibility was poor and we kept a watchful eye for large ships coming and going from the Athen's ports.  We thought we might have to anchor at Poros, which we had done previously for 5 nights, but this time managed to find a place on the pontoon which comes out from the quay and despite signs to say no berthing alongside we did exactly that, following the example of all the other boats which were already there. Water on the pontoon but no electricity but, hey, our generator has a new battery.

Sequel on the pontoon - Poros

Monday 18

We had thought we might move on today to Epidhavrus for our last couple of nights before heading for Piraeus but the Captain was fretting about an alarm signal telling us the port engine was overheating.  The port engine has been causing some concern for a while with leaking fuel lines although the Captain had partly fixed some of these.  He spent some time taking things apart and putting them back together again without actually solving much but being reassured that we were not in any immediate difficulty and we ended up staying for the rest of the day.  That evening we met up with Jim and Valerie (Ariel of Hamble) who we had met last year in Marmaris Yacht Marina and who we had bumped into on Sunday night and we joined them for dinner in their favourite restaurant.  Great food, excellent value and Greek dancing on Mondays.  Valerie and I were dragged on to our feet to join in - so glad no one could see me. Think I may have to persuade my Zumba teacher to add in a version of Zorba the Greek.

Tuesday 19

After much deliberation decided to head a day early to Piraeus in the hope of finding a diesel engineer before leaving on Thursday morning.  Had a lovely crossing of approximately four hours to the mainland.  And shortly after checking in we were visited by a diesel engineer who we hope is going to help solve a few problems and will come tomorrow -  great news.

Sequel in Zea Marina, Piraeus, Athens

Wednesday 20

The pilot book describes Piraeus as 'a dirty, noisy, crowded harbour' which is only slightly understated and having just been treated to a thunder storm and torrential rain it is now smelly as well. The Greeks here all seem to have mobile phones permanently attached to their ear, rushing along shouting into the phone and smoking all at the same time. Not many of them look as if austerity is a problem - quite the opposite. Heartened by a massive Carrefour almost opposite the pontoon we are on but may have to take my life in my hands crossing the road to get to it.  Also an M&S! 

15.00 hours and no sign of the diesel engineer and the Captain is back down below thinking he can probably do it himself. Time for me to catch up with the blog. So looking forward to returning home for a few days tomorrow and Hugh and Susie's wedding at the weekend.

Diesel engineer

We have had news of the possibility of a ship leaving Split in Croatia sometime between 10-15 June and the plan at the moment is to return on 26 May and do our best to be in Split by 10 June.  Hoping to reach Gouvia marina, Corfu by 02 June to meet up with my sister, Sue, and Mike (Lollipop) and to celebrate being another year older with them. We will also be watching out for Cindy and Ains on their cruise ship sailing around the Adriatic.

16.30 hours Now have three more (also slightly smelly) diesel engineers on board - it is a little overcrowded and I am forced to sit outside in the sunshine.

Monday 11

We hired a car to explore the island of Samos but first visited Samos Town (aka Vathi) so Geoff & Anne could sort out sim cards etc for mobile dongles, telephones etc. Only too happy to do this as relieved that we are not alone in being slightly obsessed with being able to keep in contact with family, friends and the news and, possibly most importantly, the weather forecast. Drove from Samos Town along the coast road and into the mountains up a steep road with hairpin bends to a delightful village, Manolates, where we had a walk around the tiny, almost vertical, alleyways and had a great lunch with an orange pie (which unfortunately I had to share) which was so delicious. And then back down the hairpin bends and round the island back to Pithagorio and the man himself.

Taking a break in Manolates

Had a little bit of excitement whilst relaxing on the back of Sequel after our day out when the wind swung round, the temperature dropped dramatically and a squall seemed to come off the nearby mountain on the Turkish mainland. All hell was let loose finding flat fenders to stop the boat being bashed on the rough concrete quay and when they were all sorted out the wind died down again.  Never a dull moment.

Tuesday 12

The new battery arrived and was fitted by 10 a.m. and the generator has been declared fit again.  We could leave if the wind wasnt still blowing strongly from the north so nothing else for it but more chores.  The washing, however, is dry almost as soon as the last item of clothing is pegged out. What's not to like (as Heather would say)? And a good thing this was done early as again, but a little earlier, the sky changed to an alarming dark grey and a storm came in along with heavy rain.  We were at a bit of a loss what to do as only salad to be eaten on board, no ice, warm white wine which had been on the boat for some time and no beer.  We were contemplating an omlette when thankfully the rain stopped and we were able to splodge along the headland to meet G&A for yet another meal out.

The Captain and Sequel in Samos Marina

Wednesday 13

At last some purpose to our day with some shopping to be done for our onward journey and some battening down of hatches etc. Have been checking forecast endlessly and finally decided Thursday is the day to go.  The Captain has decided we will make straight for Mykonos, which is in the middle of the Aegean and therefore usually in the middle of the meltemi, about 80 miles from Samos, and a journey for us of about 11 hours. Ate out with G&A for the last time, planning to have a reasonably early night, only to walk back along the headland in the dark with a small torch as usual at about 11 p.m. A little bit spooky.

Thursday 14

Set off at 6.15 a.m.

Sunrise over Turkey

Still a little windy but not too uncomfortable and for many hours made good progress finally reaching Mykonos some time after 5 p.m.  Helped ourselves to a berth alongside, which is what the Captain wanted, tied up beautifully, when the 'Harbour Master' came along and said we couldn't go there and to drop the anchor and come in stern to. Aaaargh! But for once no wind so at least it was a good time for anchor dropping practice - really not my favourite pastime. We came here almost three years ago with Matt & Heather and nothing much had changed except now electricity and water terminals on the quay which always makes us very happy and a 'sea bus' to take us into Mykonos town.  Mykonos town is an experience and not one I would necessarily recommend.  It was absolutely heaving with tourists of all nationalities, many Americans and Japanese. Really wondered what the Japanese make of it all. It is also very expensive compared with the other Greek islands and has a strong Italian influence, especially on the food, which is not very Greek at all.  Actually quite a relief to have something other than lamb kleftico and slouvaki.

Lighthouse on the end of Ikaria - 6 hours into our trip

Friday 15

Set off early again after successfully raising the anchor without mishap and pulling up any other lines, chains etc. which I could clearly see beneath the boat.  Headed for Kea, again where we have stayed previously with M&H and now very close to the mainland and Athens where we hope to be by Wednesday 20. A seven hour journey which again went well enough with a change of wind direction this time to the south. Almost entirely alone on the town quay until mid-afternoon when a sailing boat came in and managed to make more of a hash than we have ever done, which is so reassuring, and even with all the room they had managed not only to cross our anchor chain but in an attempt to go out and uncross it caught their anchor on our chain. It kept us all amused and I was so impressed that the crew of the sailing boat didnt yell and swear at each other. Have often wondered how many boats are called 'Carpe Diem'? Think it should be banned. We may stay here for a couple of nights but as usual a little undecided.

Kos, Dodecanese, to Samos, Eastern Sporades

Wednesday 06

Sequel back in the water and tied up in Kos Marina by10.30 a.m. We had been checking the weather forecast for our onward trip to Samos and decided Thursday was going to be the best day for some time so worked hard all day to sort out priority jobs before we could set off, not least of all going to the newly opened Carrefour supermarket within easy walking distance to provision the boat.  But in the meantime a small problem with the battery for the generator which is on its last legs and a new one needed.  It is after all nine years old. The generator is used when we have no shore power i.e. when the boat is underway for coffee (essential) and if we spend a night at anchor.  Unfortunately it was too late to order one  to arrive by Thursday in Kos and it was arranged for one to be sent to Samos (battery coming from Athens - 300 euros plus carriage).

The Captain being delivered back to the boat by forklift before going back into the water

Thursday 07

Set off by 9.20 a.m. for Samos, the closest Greek island to Turkey, after Captain had done some minor repairs to leaking diesel fuel lines on the port engine.  Had a great trip to Samos taking approximately 7 and a half hours in good conditions, although a lot of jostling for the warmest position on deck as a very chilly wind. Decided to head for Samos Marina rather than the town quay as knew we would be guaranteed electricity and water and also to where we agreed the new battery would be delivered. The marina is in the process of being sold, possibly to a Turkish company which runs the best marinas in Turkey and owns three in the Greek islands. However, for the time being, the marina is only about a thrid full and we are almost on our own (apart from a sailing boat) alongside on a pier away from the rest of the marina which is perfect and quite private. The town is a fifteen minute walk away on an unmade path around a headland and has everything we need, good restaurants and a supermarket.  The town, Pythagorio, was named in honour of Pythagoras who was born on Samos. The Captain tells me Pythagoras is his hero.  See below. We had hoped to meet our friends, Geoff and Anne on Bula, in Pythagorio and just as we were setting out for our evening meal on the first night we received a text to say they had arrived and were tied up on the town quay (the boat that is)so we were very happy.

Bruce and Pythagoras

Friday 08

Spent most of the day catching up with news of the election. 

'Cycled' up this hill - marina and Sequel in the distance

Pythagorio

Saturday 09

Back to polishing, washing, cleaning etc. and wondering if the strong northerly wind is ever going to die down. It does not look as if it will until Thursday of next week by which time we could have had enough of worshipping at the statue of Pythagoras.

Sunday 10

News that the battery will arrive on Monday but have decided to hire a car with Geoff and Anne to see the rest of Samos island including Vathi, the capital and principal ferry port of the island. The wind has been strong all the time we have been here and in the middle of the Aegean, where we hope to head next for Mykonos,  the forecast is for winds of 41mph on Tuesday. Strictly speaking the meltemi is not supposed to get going until the middle of June but it obviously could not wait.  The Americans in the sailing boat close by told us they have sailed all around the world and have spent more time in port in the Greek Aegean islands than anywhere else. So a few more days here.

Blue is the colour

Saturday 02 May 2015

For the second time in a week we left home early for Heathrow and Terminal 5 but this time for BA's inaugural flight to Kos.  Little bit disconcerted by 'Please Wait' by our flight number but in the end everything went really well and we arrived at Kos Airport half an hour earlier than scheduled. 

Arrived back at Sequel to find her filthier than we had ever seen her as allegedly there had been heavy rain full of sand.  Fortunately Bruce found Christos (who was supposed to be organising a fortnightly wash for the boat over the winter) and he arranged for two men to come almost immediately to clean Sequel.  Very relieved we didn't have to do this ourselves although Bruce did act as the foreman while I unpacked - inside off the boat very dusty too but time for worrying about that another day.

Sunday 03

Blue is the Colour

There is a policy in the yard at Kos Marina that no work can be undertaken by anyone other than the boatyard staff but Sunday and therefore everyone got cracking on work while no one around to say they couldn't and we borrowed some trestles and planks and got started on polishing the starboard side.  Hard work but very rewarding. I was allowed to help and we enjoyed our day working in the sunshine which was lovely and not too hot yet.

Delighted to hear news from home that Chelsea had finally beaten the rest of the Premiership into submission and won the title.  Five years ago we left Lymington on the day of the General Election and Chelsea won the title a few days later.  Really hoping that this is not an omen and that the next government is not going to be another blue one.  Despite being a Southampton season ticket holder for the last two seasons I have vowed not to say 'Common on you Reds' but am saying it now.

Monday 04

Work started in the yard and whereas last September nothing seemed to happen  today boats were put back in the water and the very useful trestles and boards disappeared from under Sequel and we were wondering how we were going to polish the port side. Before lunch the anti-fouling work began on Sequel's bottom much to our relief as we were anxious that it wouldn't happen before Wednesday when we are due to return to the water.  My initial jobs for the day were to sort out the wifi and the laundry and then to polish all the railings. I have become slightly obsessed with polishing now and it would not be a good idea to stand still for too long. Bruce continued to polish the port side once the work force had gone home for the day but this time standing on a plastic chair and using our ladder. Sequel is beginning to look very clean and shiny.

Tuesday 05
Engine work for Bruce today and some inside cleaning and more polishing outside for me.  A small boat next to us has been moved so the lift can get to Sequel tomorrow.  Have been living on the boat and it has been quite bearable - perhaps it is the BP tablets keeping me calm.