Split

Tuesday 16 June

Left Korcula at 6 a.m. as again we wanted to get ahead of stronger winds forecast for later in the day and headed for Stari Grad on Hvar Island, reputedly the oldest town in Croatia and one of the oldest in Europe. A lovely day, also a little cooler and a good journey of just over six hours. We were very happy with the town quay at Stari Grad which has recently been extended to accommodate more yachts and has both electricity and water. Although there were not many boats when we arrived by late afternoon the quay was almost full but unlike Korcula it was peaceful and we loved it here. The wind did pick up but fell again by nightfall and despite a clear sky when we went to bed it rained heavily in the night.

Hvar island is famous for the lavender which is grown there and it is for sale everywhere.

Stalls selling lavender

Wednesday 17

Left at 8 a.m. as again a little worried about the wind although it had dropped overnight and headed for Split which was a short journey of about three hours. 

Leaving Stari Grad, Hvar

In all of my blogs I have gone on and on about the wind, naively never having taken it seriously into consideration when we first set off five years ago, but now we have experienced most of the stronger winds, in particular the mistral and especially the meltemi but quite the scariest sounding of all is the Bora. I have read hair raising stories that it halts sea traffic and turns cars on their sides, ripping off roofs etc. So to finish off our adventures so far this year, and possibly for ever, we arrived in Marina Kastella, not far from Split and close to the airport, in a strong wind and yet again enjoyed mooring in a strong cross wind.  We finally tied up with three lazy lines and three of our own on the pontoon and it was confirmed by the marinero helping us that this was indeed the beginning of a Bora and that it would pick up during the night. 

We have heard again from Peters and May, the shipping agents, that the sailing dates have been put back  again to any time between 01 - 15 July. We have, therefore, decided to return to the UK and will leave here on Saturday morning.  The marina will only give us a month's contract for leaving Sequel on land as July and August are high season and they want to maximise their income.  So yet again Sequel will come out of the water on Friday morning.

Thursday 18
We have now experienced the full force of the Bora and, although the Captain is pleased we did, I have never been so scared on Sequel as I was for most of last night (but that may be because I have forgotten some of the other times already). It was horrible.  The wind increased in strength as the afternoon wore on and continued at full force through out the night.  At 3 a.m. the Captain got up to check on the bimini which we were both convinced was going to be blown off the back of the boat. In fact I got to the stage where I was hoping it would just go and I could go to sleep, although was also worried about my washing line going with it and where I was going to hang all the washing today. The noise was particularly alarming, a combination of jangling sailing boats, the endless, ominous, whistling of the wind, the waves in the marina and the bimini being shaken to bits and then the odd crash just to add to the atmosphere.  I am now sitting here at 5.10 p.m. with the sun shining and a light breeze as if nothing had gone on and the bimini is completely intact (and the washing is dry).

Apart from recovering from the most horrible night we have ever spent on the boat, we have as usual been washing salt water and dirty rain from the boat and cleaning up. Time to pack now but we will be back in the next month to see Sequel safely loaded on to a ship. And then we will collect her when she arrives in Rotterdam to take her back to Maasbracht where she was built.

Absolutely cannot resist adding this photograph which greets me every time I open my notebook to write my blog and one of my favourite photos of both the Captain and the First Mate and the only person to ever say 'Aye Aye Captain'.

Sequel in Croatia

Thursday 11 June

The Captain had decided after much thought that we should stay another day in Porto Montenegro to see if we could get any information at all from Ed Houben at Linssen who has been looking into a possible shipping from Tivat. We were fascinated to hear that the ship loads the boat in the middle of the bay using a crane - quite how you get off your boat as it gets hauled up and out of the water we never found out. We did, however, find out by the end of the afternoon that Ed had been in touch with Seven Stars Shipping and there would be no boat until October.  So nothing else for it but to make for Split and hope that a ship arrives there in due course.

Customs in the middle of the picture to the left of Sequel

On the Customs quay

Friday 12 

Before leaving Porto Montenegro the Captain attempted to check out of Montenegro at the Customs Office which we could see from our berth but they would not let us check out from there even though they could see Sequel and we had to move round to the Customs dock. The whole procedure is ridiculously bureaucratic but we were very happy with a Montenegro stamp each in our passports. 

It has been very hot with little or no wind and it is usually already hot by 9 a.m. It is lovely to be under way and to find a little breeze but on our way to Croatia we were struggling to find any breeze at all.  We headed for Cavtat which is the nearest port of entry into Croatia and strictly speaking a boat should check in at the first available place rather than the next convenient port.  Beginning British we followed the rule book and entered at Cavtat. The whole procedure took over an hour initially docking at the 'Q' quay and flying both a yellow flag and the Croatian courtesy flag. The Captain had to pay to dock at this quay, which is just 50M of roped off town quay, and then yet again had to visit the Harbourmaster and then the Police, a surly woman who having completed the paperwork told the Captain all he had to do now was to get off the 'Q' quay immediately.  Lovely welcome.  Cavtat was very pretty and we were a little disappointed that we had already booked ahead for the marina which lies round the peninsula from Dubrovnik in order that we could visit the Old City on Saturday.

Cavtat

We knew it would be busy because this particular marina is a base for many charter companies and the weekend is change over time. We have never seen so many charter boats in one place.  We were guided to what seemed to be only empty berth which unfortunately could not have been in a more public place with the world and his dog passing by either with suitcases leaving, or arriving, and endless trolleys filled with water, beer and coca cola, but apparently little or no food. This started when we arrived on Friday evening and was still going on when we left on Sunday morning. We closed our sunshades and hid behind them while we were on the boat. 

Trolley corner, ACI Marina Dubrovnik

Saturday 13

We left just after 9 a.m. to get the bus into Dubrovnik which terminated at the Old City.  It is really fabulous and at 10 a.m. not too busy.  We elected to start by walking around the city walls which began with a steep climb of steps (as if we hadn't climbed enough steps this week) but it was worth it for the views alone.  The whole walk round, stopping for photographs and getting snarled up with other tourists of all nationalities it seemed, took an hour and then we joined the throng walking inside the walls.  The whole place is full of cafes, restaurants and gift shops but we enjoyed the experience and even more sitting down in a restaurant outside the walls for lunch after fighting our way out through the crowds still trying to get in. 

Dubrovnik from the City Walls

Sunday 14

Despite the fact that we knew fairly strong southerly winds were forecast we decided we had had enough of our little corner and set off for Polace, on the island of Mljet.  For most of the trip the wind was behind us but when we entered the bay of Polace the wind was coming across us and mooring was exciting.  There are restaurants all along the quay here with laid mooring lines and electricity and as we were early there were not many boats.  We picked a restaurant that looked promising but more because there were two men on the pontoon waving at us and they were brilliant.  One even jumped on board to help me with the mooring line.  This involves picking the line up from the back of the boat and moving as fast as possible along the side of the boat to the bow and pulling up a (usually heavy) line to tie round the front cleat.  As the wind was so strong he obviously thought I needed some help as he was yellilng 'faster, lady, faster' and he was right.  Before too long there were other boats moored either side of us and the wind blew strongly off and on for the rest of the afternoon. Polace is on the edge of a National Forest and there are masses of bikes for hire to ride around the park.  We contemplated it for less than a minute and decided we had had enough adventure for one week and to relax. We did watch a little enviously as a whole gang of youngsters headed off. In the evening we were obliged to eat at the restaurant, Bourbon, whose pontoon we were tied to and had the best meal we have had for weeks. The restaurant prices in Croatia are almost double of those in Greece but so far the food has been a huge improvement over endless moussaka and slouvaki.

Polace, Mljet

Monday 15

Now in Korcula marina with another, very pretty old town and we luckily missed all the passengers from the Queen Victoria earlier today.  On the downside the marina, which isn't particularly big, has filled up since we arrived at 12.30 p.m. with many large charter boats, both sailing and motor, many of them full of groups of men on holiday (what is that all about?) who are all very loud and having a lovely time but slightly putting paid to any romantic ideas of a relaxed atmosphere, sitting back and enjoying the amazing views.

Korcula viewed from Sequel in the marina

Out of the Ionian Sea and into the Adriatic

Saturday 06 June

We were very relaxed about our departure from Gouvia Marina, Corfu and finally left at about 9.30 a.m. in a flat, calm sea with little wind.  The northern end of Corfu is close to the mainland which at this point is Albania and it is necessary to be cautious about crossing into the territorial water line.  The Captain had decided against making a stop in Albania and that we would head straight for Bar in Montenegro.  As Montenegro is not a member of the EU it is necessary to check in through Customs and the Police, as we have done before entering and leaving Turkey, and we also had to check out of Greece at the marina.  The first thirteen hours of our trip were lovely.  The sea state remained very calm, the sun shone and we saw dolphins, which almost made up for the anxiety I was feeling with the arrival of the sun setting at 9.06 p.m. and by 10 p.m. darkness.  I took the first watch - we had agreed two hours on, two hours off - and initially I could not see a thing but gradually there were lights, from fishing boats mostly, and far enough away not to be a problem.  The Captain had spent the whole day saying what wonderful conditions for a 24 hour sail, blah, blah, blah and it almost goes without saying that at about 11.30 p.m. (and just before the Captain's watch) the wind picked up. The combination of darkness and wind is not a good one or trying to sleep for two hours with the boat crashing up and down through waves and I did not sleep at all.  At 2 a.m. when it was my turn again the wind settled down a little and the Captain had two hours without interruption. 

The Captain changing the courtesy flag to that of Albania

Sunday 07

We arrived at Bar at 7.30 a.m. and helped ourselves to a spot alongside assisted by a fisherman.  It wasn't long before we were greeted by someone who seemed to be in charge of taking our money and then the Captain went off to check in.  We elected not to go back to bed (which is what I really wanted to do) but to go for a walk and see what was what.  There were a lot of people about already but it took a little while to realise that instead of being two hours ahead of the UK as in Greece we were now only an hour ahead - doesnt sound so bad but it meant yet another hour to stay awake! We did, however, return to the boat and fall asleep in the chairs on deck. Later on we went for another walk around Bar. Really very dispiriting and not somewhere I ever want to return to - a typical Communist era town, very drab, hot, dirty and not particularly friendly.  We were pleased to be leaving the next day.

Monday 08

We headed for the Bay of Tivat and Bay of Kotor, a 'must see', very close to the Croatian border.  The Captain elected to spend the night in Porto Montenegro Marina, which is possible the best marina we have ever stayed in. It is a super yacht marina and caters for super yachts in that it is beautifully done.  We have seen 'maids' sweeping along the main walk ways and polishing elecriticty boxes.  We have heard a (super)yacht call up asking for the dustcart to come and take the rubbish. There is a fabulous hotel in the middle of the marina, many restaurants and many over-priced boutiques. In the town is a Henri Lloyd and a Musto charging double the prices we pay in the UK.  It is also in a beautiful setting and amazingly affordable.  We have paid more in Gocek, Turkey. In Montenegro almost everything starts at 8 a.m. which we are really not used to having been in Greece when the day starts when, and if, someone gets up in the morning.

Sequel in Porto Montenegro Marina, Tivat

Tuesday 09

We set off again for Kotor which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and set right at the end of the bay. Again we helped ourselves to a place on a new pontoon right by the Old Town and for the first time ever moored stern to completely without help and picked up the lazy lines - only because there wasn't anyone there to help - and fortunately there was no wind.  We were very pleased with ourselves and then really showed off helping the next three boats in with their ropes and the lazy lines.  We could see from the boat a fortress and a path leading up to it from inside the Old Town but thought maybe we would save this for the next day.  We did venture into the Old Town but were very put off by the passengers from three visiting cruise ships and soon decided we preferred being on the boat. And by that time I was totally put off walking up to the fortress.

Path to the Church and San Giovanni Fortress, Kotor

Sequel in Kotor

Wednesday 10

We had thought we would leave by 10 a.m. Did a little bit of provisioning in particular from a fruit and vegetable market by the pontoon and then the Captain decided we couldnt leave without climbing up to the fortress. By this time it was 10 a.m. but we walked through the Old Town to find the path, initially to a church about a third of the way up, and then to the fortress itself. By the time we got to the church we were dripping - literally - but having recovered from the first climb decided to keep going to the fortress.  We really should have taken the advice from a fellow tourist who told us the view from the church was good enough. It took us 20 minutes to get to the church and double the time from there to the fortress.  The views were amazing but we should have called it a day at the church.  On the way down I counted the steps - I could not have done this on the way up as most of the time I was struggling to breathe, let alone count - and reckoned on approximately 1500. 

View of the Port of Kotor from the San Giovanni Fortress

We made it!

The Bay of Kotor

We have returned to Porto Montenegro marina in Tivat for another night and are recovering from our morning's efforts by catching up with emails etc. Tomorrow we check out of Montenegro and leave for Croatia.  We have had no word from either of our prospective shippers.

Corfu

Tuesday 02 June

Happy Birthday to me! Started off the day with cards which we had picked up when we were at home and then presents over coffee with Sue and Mike.  We then headed into Corfu Town on the bus and strolled down into the old town.  Well, we tried to stroll. It was heaving with tourists, mostly English, and already getting hot.  We spotted a pretty square in which to have lunch and then headed for the sea front, a cold drink and a breeze. Back to the boats after lunch and a siesta by the marina's pool, followed by very sweet cake for tea and dinner out. All go again. 

Corfu Town

By the water's edge - cooling down now

Wednesday 03 June
We had managed to contact Cindy and Ains, sailing on Cunard's Queen Elizabeth, only to find the ship was docking in Corfu Town for the day today.  So we headed into town on the bus again and then yomped to the port which was much further than we anticipated arriving shortly after the agreed time of 10 a.m. very hot and perspiring but really delighted to see Cindy and Ains and their, only slightly, bigger boat. We took them to the same taverna on the water's edge for coffee and then to see Sequel and with Sue and Mike we had lunch in a cafe at the marina before Cindy and Ains went back to their boat for a nice quiet lie down in an air conditioned cabin. Sue and Mike had decided to depart for a small island at the north end of Corfu before heading back across the Adriatic to mainland Italy and then eventually to Sardinia. We were sad to see them go but whereas they want some wind for their trip we don't and had elected to wait until Saturday.

Lunch - (left to right) Mike, Fran, Sue, Bruce, Cindy & Ains

Cindy & Ain's boat - Queen Elizabeth

Lollipop casting off

Farewell to Lollipop

Thursday 04 June

Days in a marina drift past usually filled with a bit of provisioning etc.  We had courtesy flags to buy for Albania, Montenegro and Croatia and other bits and pieces at the chandlery and we spent at least an hour with friends of Sue and Mike who had been to Croatia and Montenegro and they kindly gave us tips and valuable information. The weather here is very warm, 30 degrees, quite humid, and we have had a storm three nights out of the four we have been here. Ate on board and had a bit of a Beach Boys night.

Friday 05 June

Finally gave in and have put the shades up on the back of the boat. Very hot and grumpy. But getting ready for a 20-24 hour passage tomorrow so have washed everything, cooked everything and may now wash the floor inside if I can work up enthusiasm. Marina is very busy as it is change over day tomorrow and we have moved Sequel further up 'L' pontoon to make way for all the charter boats.  We have been warned that it will be very busy and are pleased to be on our way tomorrow, if nothing else but to find a breeze, only a little one. Next stop is Bar, in Montenegro.

Sunset over the marina

Patras to Paxos and back into the Ionian Sea

Friday 29 May

Another early start from Patras heading for Lefkas. Uneventful night in the marina at Patras and it was as smelly as it had been previously.  Happy to be on our way again and a call from Sue to suggest that as we were doing so well they would stay on Paxos and wait for us there rather than heading for Corfu on Saturday. As we hadn't visited Paxos before we were very happy to do so. Had a good trip to Lefkas taking approximately 10 hours. 

Rion Bridge - linking main land Greece to the Peloponnese

Saturday 30 May

Up early yet again to catch the swing bridge which opens on the hour only and for the first time in the day at 7 a.m. Another uneventful voyage to Paxos but a bit of a swell to start with left over from strong winds in the centre of the Ionians over the previous couple of days. Heard from Lollipop  that they were 'saving us a place' next to them so anxious to get there before anyone else nabbed it.  Arrived just after 11.30 a.m. and squashed ourselves in beside Lollipop but also three small local boats.  The local boats spread themselves about over the course of the winter and also generally seem to be taking over most small harbours and town quays etc. sometimes going alongside and are very annoying for larger boats wanting to muscle in and take up space, especially over the weekend. There were notices up directing different sizes of boats along this particular quay but ignored by the locals.  

Sequel and Lollipop in Gaios, Paxos

Lovely to see Sue and Mike and we all trotted off to the local cafe to collect an electricity card and had lots to catch up on over coffee and then lunch.

Gaios, Paxos

Sisters in Paxos

Sunday 31 May

Another lovely day, more coffee, more chat. Evening meal on Lollipop.  All very good but punctuated by the slightly irate owner of one of the small boats sandwiched between Lollipop and Sequel who exchanged words with the Captain while the rest of us snoozed away the afternoon. 

Monday 01 June

On our way now to Corfu and Gouvia Marina (Lollipop on her way too) for possibly four nights before the next big step towards Croatia.  Feeling a little anxious as the Captain is thinking of a long passage (24 hours) to take us to Montenegro, passing along the coast of Albania. Although he keeps saying he wants an Albanian stamp in his passport and I think he may have a plan to stop off somewhere en route. Our shipping date has been put back again so having thought we needed to get to Split by 10 June, or even a little earlier to be on the safe side, we have been told the next ship could be any time between 25 June - 5 July. But we are also in touch with another company, via Linssen Yachts, who sail from Tivat, Montenegro. Again it is all a little vague and a ship will only be available if there is enough cargo.  If we haven't heard anything by the time we get to Tivat we will continue to Split and depending on the timing we are thinking of returning to the UK rather than hanging around until the due date.  All a bit frustrating.