Sequel in Croatia

Thursday 11 June

The Captain had decided after much thought that we should stay another day in Porto Montenegro to see if we could get any information at all from Ed Houben at Linssen who has been looking into a possible shipping from Tivat. We were fascinated to hear that the ship loads the boat in the middle of the bay using a crane - quite how you get off your boat as it gets hauled up and out of the water we never found out. We did, however, find out by the end of the afternoon that Ed had been in touch with Seven Stars Shipping and there would be no boat until October.  So nothing else for it but to make for Split and hope that a ship arrives there in due course.

Customs in the middle of the picture to the left of Sequel

On the Customs quay

Friday 12 

Before leaving Porto Montenegro the Captain attempted to check out of Montenegro at the Customs Office which we could see from our berth but they would not let us check out from there even though they could see Sequel and we had to move round to the Customs dock. The whole procedure is ridiculously bureaucratic but we were very happy with a Montenegro stamp each in our passports. 

It has been very hot with little or no wind and it is usually already hot by 9 a.m. It is lovely to be under way and to find a little breeze but on our way to Croatia we were struggling to find any breeze at all.  We headed for Cavtat which is the nearest port of entry into Croatia and strictly speaking a boat should check in at the first available place rather than the next convenient port.  Beginning British we followed the rule book and entered at Cavtat. The whole procedure took over an hour initially docking at the 'Q' quay and flying both a yellow flag and the Croatian courtesy flag. The Captain had to pay to dock at this quay, which is just 50M of roped off town quay, and then yet again had to visit the Harbourmaster and then the Police, a surly woman who having completed the paperwork told the Captain all he had to do now was to get off the 'Q' quay immediately.  Lovely welcome.  Cavtat was very pretty and we were a little disappointed that we had already booked ahead for the marina which lies round the peninsula from Dubrovnik in order that we could visit the Old City on Saturday.

Cavtat

We knew it would be busy because this particular marina is a base for many charter companies and the weekend is change over time. We have never seen so many charter boats in one place.  We were guided to what seemed to be only empty berth which unfortunately could not have been in a more public place with the world and his dog passing by either with suitcases leaving, or arriving, and endless trolleys filled with water, beer and coca cola, but apparently little or no food. This started when we arrived on Friday evening and was still going on when we left on Sunday morning. We closed our sunshades and hid behind them while we were on the boat. 

Trolley corner, ACI Marina Dubrovnik

Saturday 13

We left just after 9 a.m. to get the bus into Dubrovnik which terminated at the Old City.  It is really fabulous and at 10 a.m. not too busy.  We elected to start by walking around the city walls which began with a steep climb of steps (as if we hadn't climbed enough steps this week) but it was worth it for the views alone.  The whole walk round, stopping for photographs and getting snarled up with other tourists of all nationalities it seemed, took an hour and then we joined the throng walking inside the walls.  The whole place is full of cafes, restaurants and gift shops but we enjoyed the experience and even more sitting down in a restaurant outside the walls for lunch after fighting our way out through the crowds still trying to get in. 

Dubrovnik from the City Walls

Sunday 14

Despite the fact that we knew fairly strong southerly winds were forecast we decided we had had enough of our little corner and set off for Polace, on the island of Mljet.  For most of the trip the wind was behind us but when we entered the bay of Polace the wind was coming across us and mooring was exciting.  There are restaurants all along the quay here with laid mooring lines and electricity and as we were early there were not many boats.  We picked a restaurant that looked promising but more because there were two men on the pontoon waving at us and they were brilliant.  One even jumped on board to help me with the mooring line.  This involves picking the line up from the back of the boat and moving as fast as possible along the side of the boat to the bow and pulling up a (usually heavy) line to tie round the front cleat.  As the wind was so strong he obviously thought I needed some help as he was yellilng 'faster, lady, faster' and he was right.  Before too long there were other boats moored either side of us and the wind blew strongly off and on for the rest of the afternoon. Polace is on the edge of a National Forest and there are masses of bikes for hire to ride around the park.  We contemplated it for less than a minute and decided we had had enough adventure for one week and to relax. We did watch a little enviously as a whole gang of youngsters headed off. In the evening we were obliged to eat at the restaurant, Bourbon, whose pontoon we were tied to and had the best meal we have had for weeks. The restaurant prices in Croatia are almost double of those in Greece but so far the food has been a huge improvement over endless moussaka and slouvaki.

Polace, Mljet

Monday 15

Now in Korcula marina with another, very pretty old town and we luckily missed all the passengers from the Queen Victoria earlier today.  On the downside the marina, which isn't particularly big, has filled up since we arrived at 12.30 p.m. with many large charter boats, both sailing and motor, many of them full of groups of men on holiday (what is that all about?) who are all very loud and having a lovely time but slightly putting paid to any romantic ideas of a relaxed atmosphere, sitting back and enjoying the amazing views.

Korcula viewed from Sequel in the marina